Aucoc

The origins of Aucoc lie in the business of Pierre-Dominique Maire (c. 1763–1827), an established Parisian manufacturer and retailer of nécessaires de voyage. During the Bourbon Restoration, Maire described himself as fabricant de Nécessaires du Roi et de la Famille Royale, supplying the king, the Duchess of Angoulême and other members of the royal family. In 1821, Jean-Baptiste Casimir Aucoc succeeded Maire at 154 Rue Saint-Honoré in Paris, continuing the manufacture of nécessaires de voyage, dressing cases and luxury travelling goods. During these early years he worked in partnership with Henry-François-Charles Gavet, a highly regarded cutler who had also worked for Maire.

At the Exposition des Produits de l’Industrie Française of 1823, Aucoc and Gavet exhibited finely made nécessaires, including writing-slope-form nécessaires and workboxes. By the Exposition des Produits de l’Industrie Française of 1827, Aucoc was exhibiting independently; the firm employed 40 workers and was undertaking significant business abroad. The exhibition jury particularly praised Aucoc’s nécessaires for accommodating a large number of finely made objects within remarkably compact spaces.

At the Exposition des Produits de l’Industrie Française of 1834, Aucoc presented an extensive selection of work including richly fitted nécessaires, gentlemen’s dressing cases, a fitted breakfast case, a pipe box, cigar box and liqueur cases. The breadth of this display reflected the firm’s growing specialisation in fitted cases and luxury travelling goods.

In 1835, Aucoc moved the business to 4 and 6 Rue de la Paix in Paris. Having established itself as one of the leading Parisian manufacturers of nécessaires, the firm expanded its activities into silversmithing in 1839. Further recognition followed at the Exposition des Produits de l’Industrie Française of 1844, where Aucoc was awarded a silver medal.

Casimir was joined in the business by his son Louis around 1850. Together they exhibited dressing cases at the Great Exhibition of 1851, where Aucoc was awarded a Prize Medal. Following Casimir’s retirement in 1854, Louis came to the forefront of the business. After the birth of his own son, also named Louis, in 1850, he became known as Louis Aucoc Aîné (the elder).

Louis Aucoc Aîné continued the firm’s tradition of manufacturing and retailing nécessaires, while further developing its silversmithing and jewellery. At the Paris Exposition Universelle of 1855, Aucoc was awarded a first-class medal.

A contemporary account of the firm’s premises at 6 Rue de la Paix in 1860 described a rich display of tea and coffee services, cups, travelling and toilet nécessaires and other luxury objects, demonstrating the importance that fitted travelling cases continued to hold within the business.

Further international recognition followed at the International Exhibition of 1862 in London, where Aucoc was again amongst the prize-winning exhibitors, presenting table silver, nécessaires and travelling bags.

By 1865, the firm’s workshops were operating separately at 336 Rue Saint-Honoré, while 6 Rue de la Paix remained its prestigious retail premises

At the Paris Exposition Universelle of 1867, Louis Aucoc’s standing within the industry was such that he was responsible for the official jury report covering leather goods, nécessaires, boxes and related luxury objects. Contemporary writer Jules Mesnard was particularly impressed by Aucoc’s display, remarking that what principally characterised it was its “distinction”, while also praising the firm’s careful execution and taste.

By this time, the business had acquired appointments to King Louis-Philippe I and Napoleon III, as well as other members of the royal family.

In 1876, the sixteen-year-old René Lalique began a two-year apprenticeship with Aucoc, receiving his early training under Louis Aucoc Aîné. Lalique would later become one of the most celebrated designers of the Art Nouveau period.

Around this time, Louis Aucoc fils (1850–1932) established himself independently from his father’s business. In 1877, he acquired the highly regarded Parisian jewellery firm of Lobjois at 9 Rue du Quatre-Septembre, which subsequently became known as La Maison Aucoc. At the Paris Exposition Universelle of 1878, Louis fils exhibited as a jeweller and was awarded a silver medal.

The original family establishment at 6 Rue de la Paix subsequently passed to Louis’s younger brother André Aucoc (1856–1911), who registered his own silversmith’s mark at the address in 1887. André continued to develop the firm’s silversmithing and was awarded a Gold Medal at the Paris Exposition Universelle of 1889. His brother Louis meanwhile operated his separate jewellery business at 9 Rue du Quatre-Septembre.

At the Paris Exposition Universelle of 1900, André continued the family’s long association with the great international exhibitions and was awarded a Grand Prix for his silverwork.